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Caving is a fascinating and exciting hobby and, for some of us, a way of
life, but it is not without its dangers. Even the most
experienced cavers sometimes overlook potentially hazardous
situations and make mistakes, sometimes with fatal
consequences. Dozens of caving mishaps and accidents happen
every year around the world, many of which could have been
avoided. This document is meant to inform new cavers and to
remind experienced cavers of ways in which they can avoid
injuries and accidents. May we all have many years of happy
and safe caving ahead of us!
General Caving:
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When possible, participate in small-party and
self-rescue training courses.
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Carry at least three independent back-up
sources of light with fresh batteries and bulbs (not
counting your primary light source). Good back-ups include
extra headlamps, flashlights, and LEDs. Glow sticks can be
helpful, but they should be back-ups of your back-ups. Each
source of light should be adequate enough by itself to help
you exit a cave safely.
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Always wear your helmet.
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It is easy to become dehydrated in a cave. Be
sure you bring plenty of water.
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Know your physical capabilities and
limitations, never exceed them. Don't push yourself beyond
your limits.
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Before entering a cave, inform someone who is
not entering the cave of where you are going and when you
expect to return.
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Carefully check the cave entrance for
scorpions, spiders, and poisonous snakes when you enter and
exit the cave.
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When entering a cave through a gate, inspect
the condition of the lock before locking the gate behind
you.
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Never cave alone. Always include at least one
experienced caver in your group. It is best to cave with at
least two other cavers.
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Look behind you as you travel through the cave
so you will recognize the way out.
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Avoid going into difficult or challenging
sections of a cave by yourself, and don’t leave behind an
individual who has gone into such a section to check it out.
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Avoid leaving a cave until everyone in your
group is safely out of the cave, unless you are obtaining
help in an emergency or escorting an injured caver out of
the cave.
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If you must leave for help in an emergency,
leave flags along the trail to the accident site so you and
rescuers can easily find your way back.
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Pay attention to weather conditions if you
plan on entering a cave that is known to flood during
rainstorms. If rain is forecast, do not enter the cave. If
you inadvertently find yourself in a rapidly flooding cave
and your exit is flooded, retreat to a high area in the cave
to wait for the water to recede.
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Rock fall is one of the most common and serious
sources of accidents. Always be aware of loose rock, and
either remove the loose rock from its dangerous location or
give it wide berth. Be aware that loose rock and unreliable
holds are most common in unexplored or low-traffic caves.
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If a hold looks like it should be tested, you
should probably avoid it altogether.
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If you are on a digging project, watch for
signs of instability and risk of collapse, especially in
virgin passage. Never dig in a passage with people deeper in
the cave.
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When entering a tight vertical slot, be aware
that gravity will assist you in descending, and it may be
more difficult to climb back out.
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If you will be visiting a cave repeatedly over
a period of several weeks or months, consider placing a
cache of food, water, and other supplies in a convenient
location inside the cave.
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A 20-foot length of 1-inch webbing, carbiners,
and other equipment such as chocks or removable climbing
anchors are good to have along for creating make-shift
harnesses, clipping into traverse lines, and performing
rescues.
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If a difficult drop or climb can be by-passed
with a safer route, use the safer route.
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If you are visiting a cave that has a
substantial bat population or is a known source of
histoplasmosis, follow these precautions to avoid infection:
wear a face mask in dusty areas; avoid touching your face
with dirty hands; wash hands thoroughly before eating; and
wash hands and shower thoroughly after exiting the cave.
Wet Caving:
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If you use carbide, store it in a reliable,
waterproof container. Acetylene gas is generated when
carbide contacts water. This gas is hazardous, flammable,
and can cause chemical burns. Do not use carbide lamps if
acetylene gas is present.
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Consider wearing a full wetsuit if you will be
wading or swimming.
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Before entering deep water, whether inside or
outside a cave, loosen or remove packs and equipment. These
items could weigh you down and impair your ability to swim.
Vertical Caving:
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Obtain appropriate and adequate
vertical-caving training in a controlled environment (not in
a cave) before attempting a vertical cave. Then perfect your
vertical technique on short drops before attempting deep
ones.
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You should understand how your equipment
works, how to increase and decrease friction during a
rappel, and how to prevent or stop an out-of-control rappel.
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You should be competent at performing
changeovers on-rope and getting off rope quickly to avoid
hanging on rope. If you encounter difficulty on rope, you
should perform a changeover before becoming exhausted. An
immobile caver hanging on rope can lose consciousness in a
matter of minutes; death can follow soon after.
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You should be adept at performing a pick-off
(climb up and help a stranded caver get down).
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When designing your climbing system, build in
redundancy to protect yourself against equipment failure.
Know that it is not uncommon for ascenders to become
disconnected from ropes. Have an extra ascender attached to
your harness and/or a cow's tail to protect yourself in such
situations, and to aid in negotiating difficult lips and
knots in the rope.
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When rappeling, always carry your ascender
attached to your harness so you can easily attach it to the
rope for backup.
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Consider using a quick-attach safety ascender
to attach yourself to the rope at the beginning of a rappel
and at the end of a climb. On a rappel, do not remove it
from the rope until you are safely over the lip and hanging
freely, in case your rappel device gets caught while going
over the lip. On ascent, after you climb over a lip, do not
remove your safety ascender from the rope until you are a
safe distance from the lip.
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Never become separated from your own climbing
and rapelling gear. Always carry your own equipment to avoid
becoming separated from it.
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Learn how to create a workable harness and/or
a set of prusik knots from the tail end of your rope.
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Before rigging a pit, check for and remove any
loose rock around and below the lip of the pit that could
fall on a caver. Be aware that tree roots can loosen rock
around an otherwise stable-looking pit entrance.
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Always tie a figure-8 loop in the end of
all ropes, including those not intended for rapelling,
such as safety ropes. Not only does this prevent a caver
from rappeling off the end of the rope, it provides a
convenient loop to stand in while adjusting equipment or
performing a changeover.
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When rigging up your harness, always remember
to properly fasten all the buckles by doubling the webbing
back through them.
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Although there are many different types of
harnesses, those with independent leg loops can offer
additional protection from a fall if the main buckle comes
undone.
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Brand-new rope is usually slicker than used
rope, and will cause a faster rappel. In such a case, be
sure to rig your rappel device to accomodate a faster
rappel.
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Before attaching to a rope, inspect and
understand the rigging. Identify and correct potentially
dangerous situations.
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For a rappel, check that you are attaching to
the correct rope by verifying with others in your group and
checking the condition of the rope below. If possible,
observe that the end of the rope reaches the bottom of the
drop.
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Communicate with each other using standard
climbing and rappeling signals to inform each whether
someone is on-rope, and whether or not the rockfall zone is
clear of other people.
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Avoid allowing a person of unknown or lesser
experience climb last or rappel first, in case they have
difficulty on rope.
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If your rappel device is a six-bar rack, be
sure you use five or six bars and spread them as necessary.
It is always safer to have more than an adequate amount of
bars and go slowly, than to risk an uncontrollable rappel or
fall if one bar gets knocked loose and leaves too few bars.
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Always avoid standing in the rockfall zone at
the bottom of a pit. If necessary, take shelter under an
overhang.
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Always wait until the rope and rockfall zone
is clear of other cavers before getting on-rope. Cavers at
the top can inadvertently loosen rock onto cavers below.
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If you must stop during a rappel to adjust
rope pads or work with other equipment, always securely tie
off your rappel device.
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Never have more than one person on-rope at a
time unless someone is performing a pick-off. Besides the
obvious strain this can cause on rope and equipment, it can
also be difficult during ascent for the uppermost caver to
climb over the lip with the weight of other climbers on the
rope below.
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When rappeling deep pits, the weight of
free-hanging rope decreases the further one rappels down the
rope. This phenomenon in turn reduces the amount of friction
the rack produces on the rope, and increases your speed and
your chances of losing control. Therefore, you may need to
use fewer bars at the top of the pit to move, but add bars
as you approach the bottom to add friction.
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If a rappel has become too fast and you cannot
add a bar, you can stop the rappel by quickly wrapping the
rope around your leg by spinning the ankle around the rope.
You should practice this technique in a controlled setting
before you might need it in an emergency situation.
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If you are at the bottom of a pit and observe
that a caver has lost control on rappel, you can give a
bottom belay by pulling or hanging on the rope. Be careful
not to stand in the rockfall zone, if possible.
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Climbs that are not difficult enough to
require ascending gear may require a belay.
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Ladder climbs should always be belayed.
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If you are belaying, use a sling and carbiner,
if necessary, to redirect the rope so that you can belay
from a safe location (out of the rockfall zone). Also, be
sure to belay in line with the climber’s route.
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If you are self-belaying with a prusik knot or
similar knot attached to your harness or leg loop, be sure
you attach the knot to the rope below the rappel
device, not above it. Also, the sling formed by the knot
must be short enough to quickly grip the rope below the
rappel device when you release it.
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If someone has bothered to install a traverse
line to help cavers around a difficult pit or crevice, you
should clip into it.
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Never assume that a fixed rope in a cave is
safe. If you must use such a rope, test it by having at
least two cavers hang on the bottom.
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If you place a rope, it is your responsibility
to remove it.
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Never attempt to descend or ascend a pit or
other steep drop hand-over-hand. (Experienced cavers should
know this, but newbies may not.)
Bad Air:
Bad air can cause impairing physical
symptoms, acidosis in the blood, and, in extreme cases,
death. Bad air is typically created by an increase of CO2
(carbon dioxide) to 3% or above and/or a decrease of O2
(oxygen) below 21%. The effects of bad air at certain
concentrations can become worse depending on the air
pressure in the cave. Bad air in the form of high CO2
may be triggered by warm weather (causing reduced air
convection); vegetation (washed in during a rain) decaying
in a cave; and outgassing of CO2 from
speleothems. Bad air can also be attributed to the presence
of other gases such as nitrogen gases (methane and nitrogen
oxides), hydrogen sulfide, or gases from pollution. Bad air
may occur in pockets in some caves where air circulation is
poor, such as in small, dead-end passages. Many bad-air
gases, such as CO2 and methane, are heavier than
normal air and settle in low spots in the cave, such as near
the bottom of pits.
Bad air can cause the following
symptoms:
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Shortness of breath
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Headache, dizziness, ringing in ears
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Sweating
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Exhaustion
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Nausea, vomiting
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Confusion, anxiety, panic, discomfort,
claustrophobia, a strong urge to leave the area
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Irritability
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Loss of consciousness or death
Follow these guidelines to avoid bad air:
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Be aware of how you and others in your group
feel. Do not ignore or dismiss any symptoms. If you or
anyone exhibits symptoms of bad air, immediately leave the
area to where the air is purer or exit the cave.
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You can test the air by attempting to light a
candle (a recommended flame-test indicator), or a match,
butane lighter, or carbide lamp. If the flame is small,
separated, brief, or non-existent, bad air may be present.
Do not test the air with a flame if you suspect bad air
caused by pollution from a flammable source. This test is
not entirely accurate; bad air may still be present even if
you succeed in lighting a strong flame. Likewise, candles
are such a sensitive indicator that they might not light in
air that is only slightly bad.
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Consider buying an air-testing kit if you will
be entering caves that are known to have past bad-air
problems.
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When entering a pit or a low area in the cave
that may have bad air, allow only one person to descend
first to verify that the air is safe. That person should
have necessary climbing gear ready to attach quickly to the
rope for immediate ascent, if need be.
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If a bad-air danger sign is installed at the
cave entrance or if the cave is otherwise known to have
consistent or chronic problems with bad air, do not enter it
or enter it only if you are experienced to the effects of
bad air.
Much of the information in this document
was adapted from the following sources:
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American Caving Accidents 1996-1998 issue of
NSS News, April 2000, vol. 58, no. 4, part 2
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Encounters with Bad Air, Warren Doc Lewis.
NSS News, vol. 58, no. 11, November 2000
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